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South American landscape
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South America · Off the trail · 9 min read

Eight authentic corners
of South America.

Beyond Machu Picchu and the Iguazú boat ride — eight places where the continent is still doing its own thing, in its own time, for itself.

South America rewards travellers who can stay an extra night. The big ticks — the Inca Trail, the Salar at sunset, the Iguazú panoramic walkway — are real, and you should still do them. But the continent is at its best one valley over, where the bus does not run on a schedule and dinner happens when dinner is ready.

01
Bolivia

Salar de Uyuni in the wet season

Everyone goes for the dry-season cracked-hexagon photographs. Go in February instead, when a thin layer of rainwater turns the largest salt flat on earth into a mirror that swallows the horizon. The 4x4 tours are slower, the lodges quieter, and at sunset the sky doubles back on itself in a way that does not really photograph.

For travellers who already know the Instagram version and want the actual place.

02
Lake Titicaca, Peru

A homestay on Amantaní island

Skip the floating Uros village day-trip and stay two nights with a Quechua family on Amantaní. You help cook over a wood stove, climb to the Pachamama temple at sunset, and sleep under five blankets at 3,800 metres. Run by the islanders themselves — the money goes where it should, and dinner is conversation, not performance.

For travellers willing to trade comfort for a real evening.

03
Salta, Argentina

Cafayate's high-altitude vineyards

Mendoza gets the buses; Cafayate gets the wine. Up at 1,700 metres in the red-rock canyons of Salta province, small bodegas pour Torrontés that tastes like sun and stone. Drive the Quebrada de las Conchas at golden hour, eat empanadas salteñas under a fig tree, sleep at a working estancia, repeat.

For wine drinkers tired of being ushered through tasting rooms.

04
Esmeraldas, Ecuador

The lost coast around Mompiche

Most people skip Ecuador's northern Pacific coast on their way to the Galápagos. They are missing the country's quietest beaches and its most unfiltered Afro-Ecuadorian culture — marimba evenings, encocado de pescado, surf breaks with nobody on them. Stay in Mompiche or push on to Playa Escondida. Get there before the road from Quito gets paved.

For travellers who want a beach without a resort wrapped around it.

05
Cartagena, Colombia

Getsemaní, not the walled city

Cartagena's UNESCO old town is beautiful and entirely staged for cruise ships. Cross the bridge to Getsemaní instead — the working barrio where the murals are political, the salsa bars are loud, and Plaza de la Trinidad fills every night with neighbours, vallenato accordions, and very good arepas de huevo. Stay three nights. You will want four.

For travellers who think a city should still belong to its residents.

06
Paraguay

A Mennonite colony day trip from Asunción

Paraguay is the South American country no one writes about, and the Mennonite colonies of the Chaco are why you should fix that. German-speaking dairy towns surrounded by red dust and indigenous Enxet villages — a piece of history nobody tells you exists. Loma Plata makes the cheese for half the continent. Worth a long flight on top of a longer bus.

For curious travellers who collect places that contradict themselves.

07
Chilean Patagonia

The Carretera Austral, end to end

1,240 kilometres of mostly-gravel road through the wildest stretch of Patagonia, ending at a glacier called Exploradores. Two weeks, a 4x4, and the patience to share ferries with farmers and their cattle. You will pass marble caves, a hanging glacier, and exactly one petrol station you should not skip. Better than the Torres del Paine circuit, and a tenth as crowded.

For drivers, photographers, and anyone who finds W treks too tidy.

08
Mato Grosso, Brazil

A capybara ranch in the Pantanal

The Amazon gets the headlines; the Pantanal gets the wildlife. The world's largest tropical wetland is the single best place on earth to see a jaguar, and the working ranches (fazendas) that take guests are how you do it without a cruise ship. Caiman in the river, hyacinth macaws in the morning, and capybaras everywhere. July to October is the window.

For travellers who came for the wildlife and want it without queues.

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